@article{oai:tobunken.repo.nii.ac.jp:00006774, author = {[編集部] and [Editor]}, issue = {233}, journal = {美術研究, The bijutsu kenkyu : the journal of art studies}, month = {Feb}, note = {This report on four katabira is the continuation of the Report 1 on dōbuku (Bijutsu Kenkyu No. 216, 219) and Report 2 on kosode type kimono (Bijutsu Kenkyu No. 228). Katabira type kimono is a summer wear of ramie without lining, and is peculiar to Japan as well as kosode. Its cradle period is the 16th century, from the end of the Muromachi Period to the Momoyama Period, just like Kosode and we have few examples from this period. And even among those the katabira said to have been used by UESUGI, Kenshin, which are taken up in the present paper, are the older. Since they are of quite a good preservation, they are important as materials for the history of costume and history of textile. In the 2nd chapter the general introduction is given; in the 3rd chapter the detailed description is made; and the 4th chapter is the conclusion. The following are the numbers and names the author has given and explanations of them. (1) Katabira of komon design of small blossoms with yellow ground. (Pl. IV-a, b, fig. 1, 3, 5) Komon (lit. small pattern) is a kind of stencil dyeing. First the stencil with cut-off fine patterns is layed on the cloth mounted on a wooden boad. They put paste called komonnori on the cloth through the perforations of the stencil with a spatura. And they repeat the same process with the same stencil moving the cloth. This paste is made of the flour of sticky kind of rice and rice-bran, and it prevents those portions from being dyed. After this they dye the cloth by brushes of the wash of dye, and dry it, and then they wash off the paste in water to get patterns left off-white. This method became popular since that period. This katabira, at present, is the oldest extant example of komon. The author shows next oldest two examples of komon for reference. They are dōbuku with komon said to have been given from TOYOTOMI, Hideyoshi (1536-1598, a war lord) owned by Mr. KATAKURA, Nobumitsu and dōbuku of komon said to have been used by TOKUGAWA, Ieyasu (1542–1616, the first Shōgun of Edo Shogunate) owned by Tōshōgū Shrine, Nikkō. This katabira of komon now in question has yellow ground, the small blossom patterns being white. It has the family crest of the Uesugi's of sparrows and bamboos at five spots. (The other three katabira also have the crest at five spots each.) This coat of arms is dyed in brow on the round portions being left white. (Pl. IV-b is the crest on this piece, in actual size.) The skill of dyeing komon is excellent. As this is a summer wear, it has stains of sweat at certain portions as is the case in the other three pieces. The length is 141 cm. The cloth is ramie of high quality, and the width of the material cloth is 35.5 cm. The weight of the katabira is 400 g. (2) Katabira of light peacock blue. (Pl. V-a, b.) The three pieces of (2), (3) and (4) are very pale peacock blue and at present they are faded to almost white. Though it is very pale, each of them is dyed evenly. (It is very difficult to get even effect of pale colour in natural indigo dyeing.) Each of them must have dyed by dipping twice or thereabouts into indigo. The family crest is painted in Chinese black ink and brown pigment on round portions left white. (Pl. V-b is the crest on this piece in actual size.) This katabira is the longest of the four, being 150 cm. The ramie is quite nice and its original width is 36 cm. The katabira weighs 367 g. (3) Katabira of light peacock blue. (Detail: fig. 8) The crest is painted in brown dye on the round portions left white. (Fig. 8 is the crest on this peace in actual size.) The length is 141.5 cm. The ramie is of good quality and its original width is 35.5cm. The katabira weighs 355 g. (4) Katabira of light peacock blue. (Detail: fig. 9) It seems to have been most frequently worn among the four. Because of the repeated washing, details and fine lines of the crest are defaced. (Fig. 9 is the crest on this piece in actual size.) The length is 144.5 cm. The ramie is of very high quality and best among the four. The width of the material cloth is 33.5 cm. The katabira weighs 293 g.}, pages = {42--42}, title = {美術研究所報}, year = {1965} }